Idli

If I had to pick one breakfast to eat for the rest of my life, it would probably be this. Idlis are forgiving — soft and warm, mild on their own, but they exist to be eaten with something else. They want chutney; they want sambar; they want a small dish of gunpowder and a puddle of sesame oil. Make a big batch and steam them over two or three mornings.

Ingredients

• 1 cup whole white urad dal
• 2 cups idli rice (or parboiled rice)
• 1/2 teaspoon fenugreek seeds
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt
• Cool water, as needed
• Neutral oil, for greasing molds

Method

1. Wash the urad dal and the fenugreek seeds together. Cover with water by 2 inches and soak 6 hours. In a separate bowl, do the same with the rice. Both can sit on the counter.
2. Drain the urad and grind with about 3/4 cup cold water in a high-powered blender until very smooth, light, and fluffy — almost like whipped cream. Scrape into a large bowl.
3. Drain the rice. Grind with about 1/2 cup water until smooth but slightly grainy. Add to the urad batter.
4. Stir the batter with your clean hand for a minute (sounds odd, makes a difference). The consistency should be like thick pancake batter. Add salt, mix again, and cover loosely.
5. Let it sit at warm room temperature 8 to 12 hours, until doubled and visibly bubbly. In winter, tuck it inside a turned-off oven with the light on.
6. Set up your idli steamer with a few inches of water and bring to a boil. Grease the molds. Spoon batter into each well until just over halfway. Steam covered for 10 to 12 minutes — when a damp knife comes out clean, they're done.
7. Let cool 2 minutes before scooping out. Serve hot with coconut chutney, sambar, or both.

A note: Cold weather slows fermentation; warm helps. If your batter isn't rising after 12 hours, give it 4 more. If you can't be bothered, buy idli batter at any Indian grocery — there's no shame in it.