Dhokla

A Gujarati staple that I make when I want something light but still feel like I've cooked. The texture should be like a sponge — airy, just barely springy, ready to soak up the tempered oil you pour over the top. Traditional fermented dhokla takes a day; this Eno-leavened version is on the table in under an hour and tastes nearly the same.

Ingredients

For the batter:

• 1 1/2 cups besan (chickpea flour)
• 2 tablespoons fine semolina (rava)
• 1 cup plain yogurt
• 3/4 cup water (more as needed)
• 1 tablespoon neutral oil
• 1 teaspoon grated ginger
• 1 green chile, minced
• 1/2 teaspoon turmeric
• 1 teaspoon sugar
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt
• 1 teaspoon Eno fruit salt (or 3/4 teaspoon baking soda + 1/2 teaspoon citric acid)
• Juice of 1/2 lemon

For the tempering:

• 2 tablespoons neutral oil
• 1 teaspoon mustard seeds
• 1 teaspoon sesame seeds
• 15 fresh curry leaves
• 2 green chiles, slit
• 1/2 cup water
• 1 tablespoon sugar
• Pinch of salt

To finish:

• Cilantro and grated fresh coconut

Method

1. Whisk the besan, semolina, yogurt, and water into a smooth batter — thick but pourable, like pancake batter. Stir in oil, ginger, chile, turmeric, sugar, and salt. Let sit 15 minutes.
2. Set up a steamer: a wide pot with a few inches of water, a rack, and a greased 8-inch square pan that fits inside. Bring the water to a gentle boil.
3. Right before steaming, add the Eno (or baking soda mix) and lemon juice to the batter. Whisk just until it foams up — don't overmix. Pour immediately into the prepared pan.
4. Cover the steamer and steam over medium-high heat for 18 to 20 minutes, until a knife inserted comes out clean. Lift out the pan and let cool 5 minutes.
5. For the tempering: heat oil in a small pan. Add mustard seeds; when they pop, add sesame, curry leaves, and chiles. After 30 seconds, carefully pour in the water with sugar and salt — it will sputter. Bring to a quick boil.
6. Pour the tempering evenly over the dhokla while still warm. Let it soak in. Cut into squares, top with cilantro and coconut, and serve with green chutney.

A note: Don't let the batter sit after adding Eno — it loses its lift in minutes. Have your steamer hot and ready before you reach for the leavener.